Penfolds Grange 2021 is the latest chapter in an unbroken line of vintages stretching back to the experimental 1951 — awarded a perfect 100 points by Ken Gargett, and described by Chief Winemaker Peter Gago as a wine that will not disappoint, with its full ranking only to be confidently determined in about 30 years’ time. A blend of Shiraz (94%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) sourced from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, and Clare Valley, matured for 18 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads. Expansive, sumptuously structured, and very Penfolds — a multi-decade sensory continuum now underway. Peak drinking 2027 to 2060.
Appearance
Impressive depth of mauve redness with an impenetrable black core — brooding, concentrated, and commanding in the glass.
Aroma
No algorithm to unfold the threads of this aromatic quilt. A nexus of fruits, oak, and barrel ferment — as one. Grange. Grated dark chocolate and Copha are revealed first, propelled by tell-tale volatile acidity and formics coupled with barrel-ferment nuances. An elution of marbled meats, beef fat, and marrow follows, with pan juices laced with balsamic glaze, soy, and a poppy and sesame seed spice mix with frankincense. Black briquette dust and sooty resins are stubbornly unleashed without need to swirl. Youthful. At this early stage, little attempt to immediately charm or gratify. Patience. Later…
Palate
An instant cornucopia of Grange markers — where to begin?! Expansive across the palate, with three sources and three dimensions inducing ‘blackness’ via selective Barossa, McLaren Vale, and Clare Valley fruit sourcing, and thereafter formidable structural length, width, and depth. And weight. Very Penfolds. A vortex of mid-palate sumptuousness, framed by sleek, dusty tannins and chocolatey, brüléed-suggestive oak. Less blurred are the Clare Valley descriptor giveaways — Dutch liquorice and menthol. Forensically, from maritime McLaren Vale — perhaps Worcestershire sauce and squid ink, cold corned beef with peppercorn. Maybe, from the Barossa — soaked dark Satsuma plum, star anise, and roast quince. If only it were that easy… Tomorrow, a different reveal. Indeed, a multi-decade sensory disrobing and redressing continuum now underway. Can’t wait!
Pairs With
Aged prime beef, slow-roasted lamb, game, truffle-based dishes, and the finest hard cheeses. A wine that demands patience — and a table worthy of the occasion.
Reviews
100 Points — Ken Gargett
“If this is your first sip of Grange, then ‘expect the unexpected’. A style, a blend, an experience. Buoyant, layered, accessible. Just released, compelling flavours and a liberated structure immediately tempt… when to open, when to share? This Grange release will not disappoint. In about 30 years’ time we may be more confidently able to tell you just how it ranks!”
— Peter Gago, Penfolds Chief Winemaker
